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Perpetuating the myth. No they don't!

Owning an upright I also know they don’t need to go all they way back. You can do trills quite easy on an upright you just need to learn (and you feel this)when the hammers is back again. ☺️

Hi all, just purchased a new N1x after much reading on this forum which was very helpful. Toughest decision was deciding over the NV10 and Yamaha prevailed.

A couple observations on the N1x:

- really liking the grand piano action and feel (previously owned P 155B digital for >10 yrs)
- binaural sampling is legitimate
- looking forward to streaming VST to this thing - need to look up how to do that for least latency
- UI looks ancient
- fall board seems a bit wobbly when in fully opened position (whatever nbd)
- should I be disappointed the pedals have horizontal "play"? not used to this, and seems "cheap" like it would wear out easier, and will have to get used to my foot shifting around when half pedaling

Looking forward to delivery in 2 weeks.

I have owned a CLP150, the pedal of which may not be weaker than those of my N1X. I had to change a potentiometer after 17 years of use... I guess I would have to do the same with my N1X 17 years later.

The fallboard is a pretty substantial piece of wood, it's not light. The hardware and mechanism that holds it in place is robust enough when adjusted properly. I'm curious, what direction does it "wobble" in when fully opened?


It's normal and I would suspect your brain will adjust to it once you're convinced it's not causing accelerated wear.

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the forum.

God Bless,
David

What David said 👍🏻

No potentiometer on the N1X pedal--rather, an optical sensor. Much more reliable.

It just doesn't rest 100% securely in fully opened position on the hinge. Something I would expect for this price.



This is good to know, I'm sure I will adapt, I just noticed other high end acoustic grands were the same as the pedal I'm used to which does not do this.


Thanks!

I know that the keyboard is optical, but never read anything about the pedal.

The N3 service manual doesn’t describe anything about it : just some « pedal box unit »... and no description about what is inside.

I'm not sure what you mean by doesn't rest securely. The fallboard should rest under its own weight against the cross brace when open. There are rubber bumpers in the top right and left corners of the cross brace. That's what the fallboard rests against. Observe how mine works.



As you can see once it passes the crossover point it should rest securely (under its own weight) against the cross brace.

You can actually make small adjustments to the cross brace to move it closer to the fallboard or further away. Just remove the four top screws from the back. Slide the top forward (to release it from the captive tabs), then lift up the top and you can have access to the bracket that holds the cross brace. Observe in the pictures below.

One of the four top screws.



The cross brace bracket.



Moving the cross brace further away from the fallboard will give it a more secure feeling when open and it can ensure both bumpers are being contacted by the fallboard when open. However, these are very minor adjustments and might not make any difference depending on what you are experiencing. Hope this helps.

God Bless,
David

I don't have a video to show you, but based on your video and pictures I would imagine the "cross brace" is too far away from the fallboard, and if you can picture the fall board wants to fall backwards onto the cross brace rather than gently resting under its own weight. Seeing as there is no cradle holding the fallboard in place when open, it ends up feeling sloppy.

I hope this is the case with mine and I can adjust it by simply moving the cross brace closer to the fallboard to eliminate the gap that is causing the wobble back and forth in open position.

I would advise you not to do any adjustments yourself. David is an N1X subject matter expert :-) so while I wish I had his skills, I'd rather not open up this fine instrument on my own :-)



I am going to go out on a limb here and say to you @IcedTeaNoIce - relax. Your N1X is going to be as sturdily built and as perfect as one can expect. Being new to hybrids - I had a whole lot of concerns and questions, and every little thing seemed to bother me. I even was paranoid that something definitely went wrong when they transported the assembled unit to my house.

Once it arrived and was installed in its long term position, it was truly a coming home. As the days passed and as I spent more time in the 88-key area, I was at peace knowing that everything was working as designed and built. The only real complaint (actually turned out to be a non-issue) was that the pedal unit has a lot of "play" as a unit. I phoned my dealer and did a video demonstration, and the tech asked me to unscrew the pedal further - my plush, layered carpet turned out to be the issue. I was then worried about "lateral movement" of keys - again turned out to be a non-issue - was within expected ranges. After a while, I didn't even think it had lateral play (noticeable.)

So on and so forth...

Unless, there were mistakes in assembly, transportation, moving about in the location etc., you should be fine - this is a fine piece of Japanese engineering! The dealer actually told me that unless the technician is horribly skilled - it's not really possible to go wrong with assembly even.

Welcome to this amazing club!

Yeah, if your fallboard doesn't touch the rubber bumpers when fully open, then the cross brace can come forward a bit. If the gap between the fallboard and rubber bumpers (when fully open) is small enough (3-4mm or less), then moving the cross brace closer might work. Even if you couldn't move it close enough, you could always bore out the holes (with a drill bit) in the cross brace bracket, and that would give you more adjustment range.

It's a simple fix and I would not hesitate to do it if everything else was working and you're happy with the instrument. Remember, the top is connected to the mainboard so don't lift up too far unless you disconnect the wires form the mainboard.

God Bless,
David

Ha, ha. I'm definitely not an expert, although, that was nice of you to say.

I'm mechanically minded and like to tinker. I like to know how things work as much as possible. His "fallboard wobble" is most likely a very simple fix that only requires a screwdriver.

If I owned a real acoustic piano, I'd try to learn as much about tuning and regulating as possible so that I could service my own piano.

God Bless,
David

Hello,

I can't stop myself from saying this, although I have never met an N1X in the flesh (as far as I know), so at the risk of being a meddler here:

*Please* if you decide to drill into those brackets, do so after removing them from the piano or have a *surefire* way of preventing filings and metal particles from the drilling making their way into the piano, electronics, action and keybed.

Maybe I am gibbering nonsense here, but I just had to say this.

Cheers and happy careful tinkering,

HZ

Yes, definitely remove before doing any work like that. I doubt drilling would be necessary. I just noticed that it was something that could be done if a few more mm of adjustment range was needed.

God Bless,
David

Hello,

@IcedTeaNoIce and @David B:

Another thought just popped in. Could it be that, e.g. through a slightly uneven floor under the N1X, the cabinet is ever so slightly warped/twisted, making its geometry/shape between cabinet and open fallboard less than perfect?

If so, making sure all sides and corners are dead level may restore integrity and improve the fit of things.

Cheers and happy leveling,

HZ

I, much like David, enjoy learning about how things work so the N1x will be apart at some point in the future anyways just as my current Yamaha P 155b has been.


My profession affords me the ability to manufacture a new bracket here with a slotted hole to allow more adjustability if needed.



Thanks! Is there an N1x owners section here?

Though I kind of expect the sound coming directly from the speaker is not very good, it still surprises me how muffled the sound is, even muffled than my old YDP. Is it just me?

The N1X speakers you mean?