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For adjusting a large number of damper spoons, Bill Bremmer posted this method about 10 years ago. I stored it in my personal archive and have tried it on several pianos. Some personal notes follow after.

Originally Posted by Bill Bremmer RPT
The first task is to get [the new felts in and] all of the dampers lifting with the pedal at precisely the same time. Then comes the spoon adjustment. If only a few need adjusting, that can be done by tilting the action back and attempting an adjustment, then tilting it back to see if the lift is right or not on each one.

If they all really need adjustment, I know of another technique that is sure fire but involves lifting the action out of the piano to do it. Years ago on Pianotech, I suggested this technique for a console piano with the spoons all hopelessly out of order. The technician reported back that in the end, this technique had worked when all others had failed.

It is a technique that I saw some 30 years ago on a film shown at a PTG Chapter technical. For this, you need a damper regulating tool, however. Long nose pliers will not do.

[…]

30 years later, I would not remember the title of the film or the company that made it but it was about damper regulation and showed how to make compound bends, and regulate spoons.

The spoon regulation idea is simple. Find one key where the spoon is already properly adjusted or do whatever you have to to get perhaps an end key right, such as tilting the action back, using a damper wire bender to adjust the spoon or use any other technique you may know. Mark or take note of which wippen that is. Remove the action and place it in a cradle or set it on a table or bench. Find a wedge of wood about the same size as a mute. Lift the damper rod and place the wedge under it until the marked wippen moves both the hammer and damper at the same time. Now, you can adjust all the rest of the spoons easily by bending the spoons fore or aft with a damper wire bending tool in about 5 minutes. Simply adjust the spoons so that all of the wippens make the hammer and damper move simultaneously.

For me, this was the tip of the Century because I could never figure out how to make one of those cock-eyed spoon bender tools work, not even for a single spoon! My hats off to anyone who can!


My notes on this method:

1) Like Bill wrote, time the dampers to the pedal first! The above method uses damper lift rod to hold the dampers one "timing distance" (i.e. damper movement during half the wippen stroke) behind their normal on-string resting position. In other words, the damper lift rod simulates the string plane, but one timing distance behind the actual string plane. So, for the method to work, the dampers must therefore first be timed equally to the damper lift rod.
2) N.B.!! When fixing the lift rod, take care not to twist the action on itself, e.g. when wedging the rod or its lever arm in place, or tying the lever arm to the action post with wire, take care not to have the torque from the damper lift rod twist one action post forward, the other one back. The action must remain in its normal state of tension, as it is in the piano. Otherwise a systematic error is introduced. (Been there, done that.) One option is probably to insert a wedge directly at each rod hanger. But then the rod is not torqued, like during normal operation. Perhaps, the safest bet is to select 4 or 5 sample dampers in the piano. They will dictate a straight line that can be checked periodically. All the others can then be interpolated between these. On my first try, I tied the damper rod lever arm to an action post with wire, but left the action standing free, which must have twisted the action somewhat. When I returned it to the piano, the damper spoon timing had a systematic drift from bass to treble. School fees...

Last edited by Mark R.; 11/18/21 10:03 AM. Reason: minor correction

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I prefer to work with this tool.

[Linked Image]


Burkhard Ebers
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This one looks less clumsy

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I was thinking about making something like that for myself, but as I'm not that much interested in perfecting upright regulation I didn't do it, it sure has better stiffness than those made from a rod.

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As for your regulation, this is what happens when action ratio is not the same for every key:

[Linked Image]

Your regulation gives you even keydip and even aftertouch for the cost of uneven lost motion (maybe even zero like on second key here because you don't really controlling this aspect) and uneven letoff distance (looks even from the key perspective but from hammer perspective it isn't).

Normal regulation in this case of uneven action ratios, gives you even lost motion, even letoff distance (and in result even hammer travel distance from rest rail to letoff) and even aftertouch for a cost of uneven keydip.

There is also another possibility mostly used in grands of compensating uneven action ratios with different hammer blow distance for each hammer, then you can get everything like above plus even keydip for a cost of uneven hammer blow distance, to do this in upright you would need to shim hammer rest rail felt under each hammer or something like that.

Your regulation probably works ok because there is not much variability in action ratios in upright pianos, from my limited experience there is usually more variability in grands.

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Originally Posted by Walkman
Originally Posted by BDB
I have never gotten a damper regulator tool to work. So I adjust the spoons so the dampers lift early, and then press on the top of the lever as I press the key so that the spoon bends and the damper lifts at the proper time.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by zonzi
I have the same piano since last year, I am actually quite satisfied in general except the motion is a little bit weak. maybe I will follow your regulations one day. Thank you very much for sharing!

what do you mean by motion?
I have compared with recent SK, Kawai baby grand unknown size, Yamaha upright unknown model, new Rönisch upright piano, 90s Schimmel 120. I found the action of those pianos are faster than this Petrof, but I find Petrof's tone is better than those pianos except SK.
Anther old piano I have compared was probably 70s Rönisch and the action is not better.
Have you compared to other pianos?


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Besides some variations in action ratio, I've also seen very significant variation in hammer strike distance, due to combinations of
... an uneven or warped string plane, e.g. irregular V-bar, and/or bass string plane not being parallel to treble string plane
... a bent / warped / unevenly worn / unevenly (re)felted hammer rest rail
... incorrectly bored hammers that don't compensate the overstrung break correctly.

On my first piano (supposedly professionally refurbished, and bought to play on, but ending up as my project piano - another story, best kept buried), hammer strike varied from about 45mm to about 53mm for the above reasons.


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Originally Posted by ambrozy
As for your regulation, this is what happens when action ratio is not the same for every key:

[Linked Image]

Your regulation gives you even keydip and even aftertouch for the cost of uneven lost motion (maybe even zero like on second key here because you don't really controlling this aspect) and uneven letoff distance (looks even from the key perspective but from hammer perspective it isn't).

Normal regulation in this case of uneven action ratios, gives you even lost motion, even letoff distance (and in result even hammer travel distance from rest rail to letoff) and even aftertouch for a cost of uneven keydip.

There is also another possibility mostly used in grands of compensating uneven action ratios with different hammer blow distance for each hammer, then you can get everything like above plus even keydip for a cost of uneven hammer blow distance, to do this in upright you would need to shim hammer rest rail felt under each hammer or something like that.

Your regulation probably works ok because there is not much variability in action ratios in upright pianos, from my limited experience there is usually more variability in grands.


Oh Wow! Thats a great vizualization. Thanks!!!

You are completely right. Since my upright is old with old parts and I am in no position to change butt leathers etc, I am feeling by touch all the transition points due to friction probably. My goal is to feel everybfriction at the same time ( when I am playing a chord), while the keys end up at the strings at the same time. So the sound comes out simultaneously and frictions happens simultaneously. You are correct, maybe that is achieved by unevel lost motion, but that is something unevenness of which I feel the least while playing.

Thanks again for the effort, was very helpful!

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Originally Posted by ambrozy
As for your regulation, this is what happens when action ratio is not the same for every key:

[Linked Image]

Your regulation gives you even keydip and even aftertouch for the cost of uneven lost motion (maybe even zero like on second key here because you don't really controlling this aspect) and uneven letoff distance (looks even from the key perspective but from hammer perspective it isn't).

Normal regulation in this case of uneven action ratios, gives you even lost motion, even letoff distance (and in result even hammer travel distance from rest rail to letoff) and even aftertouch for a cost of uneven keydip.

There is also another possibility mostly used in grands of compensating uneven action ratios with different hammer blow distance for each hammer, then you can get everything like above plus even keydip for a cost of uneven hammer blow distance, to do this in upright you would need to shim hammer rest rail felt under each hammer or something like that.

Your regulation probably works ok because there is not much variability in action ratios in upright pianos, from my limited experience there is usually more variability in grands.

That is a great graph Mr. Ambrozy!

By the way, you can individually alter the blow distance of each hammer by shimming underneath the hammer rail felt. This will keep hammers from resting on jacks where lost motion is lacking.


Jean Poulin

Musician, Tuner and Technician

www.actionpiano.ca
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