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Joined: Nov 2006
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Digitus Offline OP
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I am using Pianoteq on a PC, hooked up via a TC Electronic Konnekt 24D to a Roland A-80 MID controller keyboard.

I have two damper pedals that support half-pedaling: a Yamaha FC3 and a Roland DP-10. Neither of them is working properly with my system.

The FC3's polarity is opposite to what the A-80 is expecting and transmitting. So sustain is 'on' when the pedal is not depressed! Can the polarity be reversed easily? How?

The DP-10 sends MID values 24 to 127. So I am getting a little bit of sustain even when the pedal is not depressed. Not good. Is this inherent in its uhhh 'design'?

Help much appreciated!

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Digitus Offline OP
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Ah, problem fixed, at least for the DP-10.

1. Disconnect A-80 from MIDI interface, and power it down.

2. Plug in DP-10 into appropriate port (FC3 in my case).

3. Power up the A-80.

4. Connect the A-80 to the MIDI interface.

Doesn't work for the FC3 though.

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Digitus Offline OP
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Ugh! Problem not fixed. Stupid me forgot to switch the DP-10 back to continuous mode before claiming success!! frown

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Similar to Digitus' earlier problemo, my FC3's polarity is apparently opposite to what my Roland FP-7 keyboard is expecting--sustain being 'on' when the pedal is not depressed. Can the FC3's polarity be reversed? How? (WWBW told me to switch the FC3 pedal's polarity after finding in the FP-7 manual how to switch said polarity. Said manual has no info on switching pedal polarity atall, alass.)

Any help is MUCH appreciated! The FC3 pedal feels a lot better than the DP8 which came with the keyboard. It's rounder and gentler. And its sustain almost seems to sound better (though this might just be human nature interfering--the unattainable seeming more desirable).

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Digitus Offline OP
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It was suggested that you can reverse the FC3's polarity by rewiring either the jack, or else open up the FC3 and rewire the potentiometer in the pedal. I haven't tried it.

The problem I was having of the DP10 not sending MIDI 0 when not depressed was caused by an over-thick felt pad between the pedal and the case. I fixed this by using a narrow-bladed box hobby knife to shave off about half of the felt pad's thickness.

Joined: Apr 2006
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The often used term "polarity" is, in my opinion, a really bad expression here. There are three type of pedals. The ones that close the circuit when you press the pedal, the ones that open the circuit and pedals that have a switch that allow you to change between this two operating modes. Unfortunately you can not re-wire the pedal because the function of the switch is a hardware issue.
The same should unfortunately apply for the ones with half pedal function (potentiometer).
As I comprehend, even if you rewire the jack the pedal will work in the same way (closing or open the circuit).


Peace.

/Richard

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Digitus Offline OP
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Hi Richard,

The FC3 and DP10, when used with a software piano such as Pianoteq, are used as continuous MIDI controllers. They are NOT on/off switches that generate either MIDI 0 and MIDI 127. The continuous controllers generate MIDI values between 0 and 127, governed by the sweep arm of a potentiometer. I have read on other fora that re-wiring the potentiometer does work, though I have not tried it myself. Can you suggest why it would not? smile

Some pedals such as the DP10 have a switch that allows you to choose between on/off switching and continuous controller mode.

People understand the use of "polarity" in this context. If it is bad or inaccurate, then I offer my apologies. How else would you refer to it then? smile

Edit: Do a Google search on "sustain pedal polarity" and look at the hits. Even manufacturers of such pedals use the word "polarity". smile Some pedals such as the M-Audio SP2 has a switch that reverses the ummm 'polarity' so that the pedal will work with keyboards from the likes of Roland and Yamaha for whom MIDI 0 and MIDI 127 mean different things. The switch is clearly a simple reversal of the ummm switch polarity, which also means that re-wiring either the pedal or the jack will probably work. Open up a pedal for yourself -- there really isn't much there at all.

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On a pedal that is simply a switch, ( on/off ) it is perfectly feasible to change it's action, if you are handy with a soldering iron. I did it myself, just two days ago.
Open up the pedal, and on the small circuit board that the switch is mounted on, you will probably see the connections marked, 'Common', 'NC' (normally closed), and 'NO' ( normally open ) Simply swap the NO, and NC connections, to reverse the 'polarity'.


Rob
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Stand corrected on this one. But you have to rearrange the connections at the switch or potentiometer if they are of the right type. You can't just swap the cables at the jack.


Peace.

/Richard

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Digitus Offline OP
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Quote
Originally posted by Miracle:
You can't just swap the cables at the jack.


Peace.

/Richard
And I stand corrected on this one! laugh

I guess the moral of the story is to use Roland pedals with Roland keyboards, Yamaha pedals with Yamaha keyboards, and test any third-party pedal with your keyboard before laying out the money!

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What a wonderful treatment of the issue--since the Yamaha FC3 pedal feels MUCH better to the foot and has better action! Muchas muchas gracias! (Jag är mycket tacksam.)

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Apologies for reviving this topic, but the following may, or not, be useful.
I recently rewired a sustain pedal, for use with a cheap Yamaha PSR-E313 keyboard, which I bought for posting simple home keyboard lessons on my website.
Today, I noticed that if I depressed the pedal, whilst simultaneously powering on the keyboard, that the 'polarity' changed. i.e. the pedal switched off the sustain, when depressed.
I don't know if this is peculiar to this particular keyboard, or if it is a little known Yamaha feature.
It would be interesting to know if others observe this effect.


Rob
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Hi Rob - You've stumbled on a very handy feature! Some keyboards will change the polarity of the pedal input if it senses the pedal pressed down at power-up. This allows you to use a pedal of opposite polarity. When I have a pedal polarity issue the first thing I try is powering up the keyboard with the non-working pedal depressed. If it works it can be a life-saver!

Joined: Mar 2010
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I resume this old post because I need to re-wire my 3 FATAR VFP3-D pedal with dynamic dumper. It comes with 3 wires and 2 jacks (one is stereo).

The stereo jack has a common ground; one pole is linked to soft pedal switch and other pole is for dumper potentiometer.

Now what? Do you know if my Promega 3 needs stereo or mono jack for dumper? And how can I re-wire it?

Thanks in advance.





GEM Promega 3 (sold) - Yamaha CLP 170 (sold) - Acuna88 (sold) - Kawai VPC1 + BK7m

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